Saturday, May 17, 2014

A bit of background

The Via Podiensis, or the Le Puy Route is one of the four major ways through France following the pilgrimage route, the Chemin de Compostelle, to the alleged tomb of Saint James in Santiago de Compostela, in Galicia, Spain. It follows closely one of the important French hiking routes, the GR 65, passing through Cahors and Moissac, finally merging with two other pilgrimage routes, before passing through the French border town of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port and crossing the Pyrenees into Spain. It is by far the most traveled of the four French routes and I chose it both because of its history, the beauty of the countryside, and the likelihood of finding well-spaced moderately priced accommodations along the way.



As with my previous camino, I will need a créancale (from the Catholic Church) or crédentiale (from another pilgrimage organization), a passport of sorts, which will entitle me to stay in special refuges (gîtes d’étape), and to collect stamps of places where I stay or visit along the way.  I will also need to order a copy of  the popular guide Miam-miam Dodo (French baby language for "Eat, Sleep"), which lists all the eating and sleeping possibilities along this pilgrimage route, from Amazon.fr.  I understand I should probably also get the Topo-guide FFRandonée 651--Sentier vers Saint Jacques-de-Compostelle:Le Puy-Figeac, so, in order to have the most recent edition, it looks like I am going to need to stop at the Institut Géographique National (IGN) and pick one up at 107, rue La Boétie (8eme) before I leave Paris.  Something to read on the long train ride to Le Puy-en-Velay. . .



I mentioned that the region was historically interesting.  In fact, the first recorded pilgrimage across the Pyrenees to the shrine of Saint James was that of the bishop Godescalc of Le Puy-en-Velay in the winter of 951 A.D., apparently with a large entourage of pilgrims. It is said that on his return, Godescalc arranged for the construction of a small chapel dedicated to the Archangel Michael on top of one of the volcanic pillars at Le Puy, Saint Michel d’Aiguilhe, which still stands today.  I visited it a number of years ago before I ever thought of doing the pilgrimage, so would like to see it again with new eyes.



 Meanwhile, I have been noting useful websites, and was recommended Robert Forrester's Facebook page, Camino/ Via Podiensis/Le Puy/Chemin St Jacques/la Voie du Puy-en-Velay, by a reader of the American Pilgrims on the Camino (APOC) page, when I posted a request for information.  I have been tentatively sketching out distances and possible stops along the way, and estimate that it will take me about 15 - 16 days.  It is frustrating because, depending on what site I consult, I get different mileage/kilometrage results.

In preparation for my previous camino from Sarria to Santiago de Compostela, I read two books that were relevant to this one,  Hanna Green's Little Saint, and Jean-Claude Fau's Conques, both treating the historic final stop in my planned pilgrimage.  If you read my previous blog, you will remember that Jean-Claude Fau is a local Conques historian, and Hannah Green, an American writer completely captivated by the town and the life of its local saint, Sainte Foy, a 12 year old girl martyred in the late 3rd or early 4th century, possibly during the persecution of Christians under the emperor Diocletian. http://pamscaminodesantiago.blogspot.com/2013/09/another-book-or-two.htm!
I expect I'll have looked at many more related titles by October 2014, which is now a mere 4.5 months away!