Day 12: Lanne-Soubiran to Aire-sur-l'Adour

Psalm 127: 1 "Unless the LORD builds the house, those who build it labor in vain.  Unless the LORD guards the city, the guard keeps watch in vain ..."

The final sprint to Aire-sur-l'Adour! It ended up a LONG limping walk... There was much walking through woods, fields, and a long segment of asphalt-walking. 
 

"We take the time to live, to be free"

Church, Lelin Lapujolle

Organic snack, Lelin Lapujolle

The communal facilities in Lelin Lapujolle were first class, and much appreciated.  I understand that those who own the huge surrounding vineyards support their commune well.

Pilgrim rest-stop

"Welcome: Keep up your morale"

An hour and a half before reaching Aire-sur-l'Adour, I had about 20 minutes of steady rain. The trek through nearby Barcelonne de Gers was difficult because my energy was flagging and I was limping because of too many problems to name. And then finally, sooner than I thought-Aire-sur-l'Adour! I was never so happy to see the Maison des Pelèrins!

In fact, the rain started just after I passed this rock -- "the sunshine is within you"

Aire-sur-l'Adour is good-sized, and apparently a very old city dating back to Roman times like much of this region, as I have said. Once called Vicus Julii, under Roman rule, it became Atura under the Wisigoths in the 5th century. The gothic Benedictine abbey of St. Quitterie was named after a Wisigoth princess, martyred for her Christian faith, whose relics are kept in a crypt in the basilica there.

Church of St. Quitterie

Crypt of St. Quitterie

A few of us at La Maison des Pèlerins

After dinner we were also entertained with singing and guitar playing.

 At 6 pm I attended the mass at the 11th century Cathedral of St. John the Baptist  with about a dozen other pilgrims... The chapel where we worshiped was adorned in frescoes painted in warm colors, and, since I didn't have my phone/camera with me, I returned the next morning to take a few photos.

Chapel in the Cathedral, Aire-sur-l'Adour

Day 11: Le Haget via Nogaro to Lanne-Soubiran

Psalm 57:10-11 "For your steadfast love is a high as the heavens; your faithfulness extends to the clouds. Be exalted, O God, above the heavens, let your glory be over all the earth."

 

Well yesterday afternoon was just miserable weather-wise, and it rained steadily after I arrived at my gîte. I was thankful I had planned a short morning walk. The gîte and equestrian center, Le Haget, was in the middle of nowhere, and apart from the equestrian center and pool (which I didn't take advantage of), there was little to do.


Leaving Le Haget early, I again passed by the 12th century chapel which was once an outpost for the Knights of the Order of Malta, known simply as the Eglise d' hôpital, dedicated to Ste. Claire. The remainder of the buildings had been destroyed during the French Wars of Religion. Apparently the pilgrimage route from Rocamadour, mentioned earlier, also had a variant route that joined the Via Podiensis here as well.  It seemed so remote, but then I was judging from 21st century eyes. I  stopped, had a look, then continued on five more kilometers to Nogaro.

Oops--what do I do here??

I wasn't sure what to make of this--I barely knew what day it was

First glimpse of Nogaro

Like elsewhere in the region, the town of Nogaro has some lovely half-timbered buildings.  The church, dedicated to St. Nicholas in 1060 was apparently seriously damaged during the French Wars of Religion, then used for coal storage during the French Revolution.  It was repaired and enlarged in the 19th century, but there remain some of the oldest romanesque frescoes in the region. Nogaro is also the site of a distillery of Armagnac brandy.

Approaching Nogaro

Les Chais de Saint-Jacques

Although much had been destroyed and rebuilt over the centuries, there were lovely capitals, and frescoes.  The newest stained glass windows, dating from the 21st century have vegetable and grain themes.

Lanne-Soubiran, Maison Labarbe

Lanne-Soubarin, Gîte d'étape Le Presbytère

Eglise de Lanne-Soubiran

The walk on to Lanne-Soubiran was mostly though fields and woods, occasionally intersecting roads and highways. My gîte, Le Presbytère, is authentic, and is actually attached to the church, dedicated to St. Peter, which dates from the 11th century. 

Unfortunately the gîte only opened at 3 pm and I was there, along with two German pilgrims, at 1:30 pm. There is NOTHING to do at Lanne-Soubiran, as there is nothing else here.  NOTHING.