Spring into summer

Well I haven't been doing much training, but it is still early. I've taken a couple of walks by Lake Frank and one along the towpath by the C & O Canal starting at Riley's Rock.  The last walk was with a dog-walking group so hardly counts as we were walking pretty slowly. I don't advise going there on a sunny Saturday morning because it was fairly crowded with bikers, walkers, picnickers, and those out boating.

The Aquaduct

Boating on the C & O

Of course I walk regularly with the dogs through the neighborhood behind my house in good weather to the City of Rockville's Maryvale Park.  All asphalt, to be sure, but it still qualifies as exercise.

Park bench, Maryvale Park

Exploring near Lake Frank

I have been overwhelmed with all of the photos I have taken, however, and have been attempting to organize them somewhat.  Last year I put together a video on my camino from Sarria to Santiago and have now another on the Via Podiensis.  I had to install a goodly number of updates to Windows 7 a month ago, and, in the process lost the ability to use the Windows Movie Maker.  I then installed VideoPad Video Editor and was somewhat disappointed with the results as I found it very difficult to use. Fortunately I remembered that Movie Maker was on my basement computer.  None of these are as intuitive as I would like, though, and the instructions seem to leave out the steps where I need clarification. [to watch the videos, click on the highlighted links above.]

I have also been accessing my guidebooks for the Conques to Moissac segment I plan to walk.  My Michelin Chemins de Compostelle covers the entire trail all the way to the Spanish border so that is good.  My TopoGuide : Grande Randonnée Sentier vers Saint-Jacques-de-Compostelle stops at Figeac, so that will need to be updated, and my Miam Miam Dodo is too out-of-date (2012) so that will need to be updated as well, as the edition I have doesn't include the variant GR651. Since the TopoGuide is now available in a e-book format, I may opt for that, and download it when I arrive in Paris.  I understand it will have the variant Célé Valley route [GR651] that I want to take.

The TopoGuide I Need

I have also recently become of the administrators for the Way of Saint James - Via Podiensis - Chemin du Puy-en-Velay Facebook group.  Since this is a closed group, I basically monitor the conversations, and admit interested persons into the group, provided they seem to have legitimate intentions for requesting membership.  The idea is to keep out spammers and those that have no real interest in the group, which is described as "a place to find, share, ask questions, for people who want to walk, or have walked the Via Podiensis chemin from Le Puy-en-Velay, France."  I had been posting about one of the donativos, those gîtes, frequently Christian, that do not charge, but operate on donations given by those that stay there or use their service.  The"donativo" in question seemed to have trumped up charges levied against them by their local commune, likely because they felt that they were taking business from them and couldn't understand how they could function.  I felt the charges were unfair, brought their plight to the attention of the group, because I felt it set a precedent that was not in the interest of the Chemin, and, lo and behold, was asked to become an administrator! 

Since I have TV5Monde as a Verizon Fios TV channel option, at this writing am actually watching a video on the Aubrac, (called "Aubrac des bergers et des moines") that region in the Massif Central that I visited last fall.  I was working on this blog with the television on in the background, heard the word "Aubrac", looked up, and realized they were showing a special program on the subject!

The Aubrac

And again the Aubrac, particularly known for it's breed of cattle named after the region

 

 

My chemin to be continued

    After returning from my previous "périple", I read an intriguing posting in Robert Forrester's Facebook page "Way of St. James - Via Podiensis" by Compostelle hiker, Michelle Guitard, about a variant route of the GR65, the GR 651.  This "variante", which goes by the valley of Célé River, is known locally as Paradise Valley. The photos Michelle posted were fantastic, and I was hooked there and then.  I did some research, discovered that the route was covered in the Miam-Miam Dodo, and decided that since that route could be a portion of the continuation of my chemin de Compostelle, I'd like to try it.  I have since started to sketch out the route, and I have discovered several alternatives.  The negatives of taking this variant route are that the distances between the normal stopping places are not always ideal, and the availability of places to stay varies.  Apparently in the Célé Valley, the options are considerably more sparse than along the regular route.  I will definitely want to start my journey a little earlier than I did last year, as many of the places close at the end of September.  So far I have roughed out my route as follows:

Day 1    Travel from Paris to Conques [via train to St. Christophe or Rodez then bus to Conques]

Day 2    Conques to Livinhac-le-haut 24,5 km

Day 3    Livinhac to Figeac 24.5 km

Day 4    Figeac to Espagnac 25 km

Day 5    Espagnac to Marcilhac-sur-Célé 15 km

Day 6    Marcilhac to Cabrerets 20 km

Day 7    Cabrerets to Pasturat 18 km

Day 8    Pasturat to Cahors 22 km

Day 9    Cahors to Lascabanes 23 km

Day 10  Lascabanes to Lauzerte 22 km
 

Day 11  Lauzerte to Moissac 24 km

Day 12  Leave Moissac by train for Paris

    I am still contemplating an extra day, and adding the medieval town of St. Cirq Lapopie. This, however would mean backtracking, which doesn't really appeal to me, so that is one consideration, the other being that I might need to add an additional day if I want to see the Peche Merle cave. I will probably arrive late in the afternoon in Cabrerets, and would be loath to have the added  lengthy and steep trek to the cave.  Although I would be traveling off-season, obtaining tickets shouldn't be a problem, but given my above-mentioned plan, this would not be too feasible without allowing additional time.

The route from Conques with the tiny chapel to Ste. Foy faintly visible near the center of the photo hidden among the tree branches

    I have been searching a way to reduce the distance from Conques to Livinhac-le-haut as I understand the initial vertical climb out of the town is a challenge, and the distance is a long one for a first day.  On the other hand, I desperately want to avoid staying in the sprawling industrial city Decazeville, some 4 km before Livinhac.  I have learned that there is a slightly shorter variant pilgrim-friendly route that diverges a little over a mile beyond the chapel pictured above, going by the town of Noailhac, which sounds promising.  Fortunately my Topo Guide Sentier vers Saint-Jacques-de-Compostelle via Le Puy goes as far as the town of Figeac, facilitating my research.

 

I'll need to buy the the Topo Guide for the next portion of the journey, the one that covers Figeac to Moissac, which I understand it has the Rocamadour variant route. It's too expensive to buy here in the U.S., so when I'm in Paris I'll need to check to make sure it has the GR651 (Célé Valley route) included before I buy it.  The topographical maps included in these books, and the descriptions of the routes are almost as indispensable as the Miam Miam Dodo.  On the other hand, the Michelin Chemins de Compostelle with the helpful elevation maps won't help me here at all.  I did, however, find the following for the Noailhac route:

I hope this is picture is an exaggeration--the description does, however, give the instructions on how to follow the variant route via Noailhac, and avoiding Decazeville.  This is important as are no trail markers available for this option.

Post-scriptum : Paris reflections

You may have heard discussion about the resurfacing of bedbugs along the Route. I remember a group of us sitting around the table after dinner at the gîte Domaine de Sénos sharing our ignorance. I had seen an enlarged picture of one, along with one showing the actual reddened welts on someone's body.  Most gîtes were taking protective measures--boots were to remain outside, sometimes backpacks were not allowed in the sleeping area, there might be plastic covers on the mattress, etc.

Unfortunately, on my very last night at the Sainte Foy Abbey gîte in Conques, I got bitten. I suspect either the pillow or the top edge of the blanket, as the bites were on and around my neck. This meant washing everything in hot water that was washable when I returned, and using the dryer to heat my backpack and boots. Not a pleasant ending, but it could have been a lot worse.

All in all, it was a very Catholic time for me. Maybe because most of my companions were French or Canadians with Catholic heritage. Early on there had been a group that discussed their faith, and even made use of the chapel in one of the gîtes for an evening prayer. The 29 year-old Oriane had served as a volunteer in Catholic organization in Vietnam for a year. Michel, the now 40 year-old Canadian, had discovered love, and the love of God. I had stayed in the Convent of Malet and learned about the Italian nun, later beatified,  Angèle Merici, who was the founder of the Ursulines. I then stayed in a Catholic donativo gite, the Hospitalité Saint Jacques, where Catholic volunteers spent time encouraging their fellows in the faith. I talked at length with the older woman, Agnès, who recommended that I read the Catholic publication La Croix, for its balanced and informative treatment of subjects in the news. Finally, I spent time in Conques,  learning about Sainte Foy, learning about the Frères Prémontrés, but also hanging out with a group of older Catholics and their priest.  A very Catholic time indeed.

This morning, to my surprise,  I caught part 1 of a French mini-series on walking the Chemin St. Jacques de Compostelle.  Actually I think it concentrates on the mountainous segments,  this first episode being on the Aubrac in France,  which I had just completed.  I'm hoping someday to find it on YouTube...


And I have finally learned the tune to sing the "onward and upward" chant of the medieval pilgrims: 

Ultreïa ! Ultreïa ! E sus eia
Deus adjuva nos !

Listen here

P.S. I apologize for the weird order in which these postings have appeared.  I have no explanation as to why they were not posted in sequence.  I published them from my tablet, in chronological order, sometimes without photos due to the slow Internet speed or weak signal in places, but, nevertheless, in the end they were not sent out sequentially, and a bit annoying to read as a result...

Bedbug bites on neck

Leaving the Cathédrale de Notre Dame in Le Puy

Oriane, Michel and others in our gite in Saugues

The Couvent de Malet in St. Come d'Olt

Catholic hospitality in Estaing

Sainte Foy church

My Catholic bus-mates in front of the tympanum in Conques

 To watch a brief video version of my walk from Le Puy-en-Velay to Conques, click here.

Day 16 : Depart Conques for Paris

I haven't said much about the surprisingly tall 11th century romanesque church with its impressive tympanum of the last judgment,  or the cloister. Once run by the Benedictines, in more recent years the lovely Abbey of Sainte Foy at Conques has been taken over by the Order of Canons Regular of Prémontré--an order of German origin, influenced by Augustine,  that is both contemplative,  and engaged in the world.  I think there are currently 8 monks serving there.  As for the Abbey, in comparison to gothic structures, it is relatively simple in design, but, as I said, the lofty interior ceiling is as high as any gothic one.

While certainly enjoying my time in Conques, I spent a fair amount of time brainstorming yesterday for a solution to my 60 Euro dilemma without finding a good alternative. I talked to the Tourist Office, the volunteers at the Abbey help desk, fellow walkers, etc. One thing was certain--I didn't feel like hitchhiking, and 60 Euros was practically the price of my bargain train ticket to Paris!

There have been a fair number of people wandering around Conques because it is the weekend. Carloads of German-speaking hikers in the morning, and at least one huge group of would-be Pilgrims staying in the guest rooms of the Sainte Foy Abbey's gîte tonight just for the experience. I felt like exhibit A.

Well miracle of miracles--my dilemma was finally solved! One busload of people, visiting Conques with their parish priest, and conveniently staying with me at the Ste. Foy Abbey's gîte, were going via Rodez, another train station just south my stop of St. Christophe. Rodez is on the same line as my stop, and I was able to leave with them, planning to pay a small supplement at the station for the slight change in itinerary.  Even better,  when we came to Marcillac--about midway to Rodez, the main route was blocked due to an outdoor market operating there in the middle of the road, and our driver had no option but to turn around and go by St. Christophe, some 5 kilometres away! The priest asked me if I preferred to stop there--a rhetorical question if I ever heard one! I was elated--they even dropped me at the little train station!

Since I was early, I took an earlier train to Brive La Gaillarde, where I had a change of trains, but eating possibilities were better as it was a much larger town and a major train hub

Sainte Foy Abbey gîte

 

Weekend in Conques

Conques seen from the St. Roch chapel

Parish group from Pau

The bus

Saint Christophe station

Brive La Gaillarde station

Day 15 : More Conques

Five of us from the gite Domaine de Sénos overnighted in Conques, and we all showed for the special pilgrim blessing service along with a dozen others. The priest also gave us a nice explanation of the tympanum over the front doors of the church as well,  and since there just happened  to be an organ concert/(interior) light show through Sunday, we benefited from that, too! One thing I learned is that the Spanish name Santa Fe is actually a reference to Sainte Foy, as Foy (from the Latin word Fides) means Faith.

Unfortunately the only ATM machine in town was out of order, complicating my life. I had the Tourist Office call to let them know of the problem but since it is Saturday,  nothing is going to be done until Monday when I am gone. Very frustrating as I am quite low on Euros.

I have visited the church dedicated to Sainte Foy, the treasure with its reliquaries, including that of its patron saint, the little Chapelle du Rosaire, and the small  museum named after a former mayor, Joseph Fau.

Yesterday I had an overpriced dinner at the Auberge Saint Jacques, apparently the only restaurant open in the evening in the off season. At least I was able to pay with a credit card.  Actually the main dish was not bad, trout with pasta, and the dessert, a seasonal apple concoction with whipped cream, was fine as it was not too heavy. Most of the people were eating the aligot (potatoes, cheese and garlic) with sausage or steak, but I still hadn't recovered from lunch! Since I will be staying at the Abbey's gîte I will eat there as I prefer demi-pension when available...

I also visited the Roman bridge and the St. Roch chapel, but the chapel to Sainte Foy would have required me returning back to the gite for my hiking poles as it was well out of the city and much further along the Pilgrim Route. Conques is extremely hilly, and after walking a long slippery descent, without poles, I was in no hurry to walk back, retrieve mine, and repeat the process again.

The ATM is now functioning, which is good thing. I just learned that the shuttle I had planned to take to the train station only runs in high season, which ended a week ago. Instead of EUR 15, it will cost me EUR 60 to take a cab. I am not happy about that,  but don't exactly have any other options.

I have now moved from the gite communal to the Sainte Foy Abbey's gîte. Can't say it's an improvement, but at least I can take my meals there.

Selection for Day 15 on the Pilgrimage

(Hebrews 12) 1 [S]ince we are surrounded by so great a
cloud of witnesses, let us also lay aside every weight and
the sin that clings so closely, and let us run with
perseverance the race that is set before us, 2 looking to
Jesus the pioneer and perfecter of our faith, who for the
sake of the joy that was set before him endured the cross,
disregarding its shame, and has taken his seat at the right
hand of the throne of God.

Sainte Foy Abbey church

Modern Reliquary of Sainte Foy

Conques

Conques

Monk explaining the Tympanum of the church of Sainte Foy to pilgrims

Tympanum detail

Day 14 : Conques

My posting of 10/18/2014 has been mysteriously erased in the last few months.  Since what I wrote then can never be recaptured, I have simply posted again some photos from that period.

Day 13: Sénergues

Although I was a little miffed with my overpriced accommodations,  being charged a single supplement since there was no one to share my room with, I learned more about the older French woman, Agnès, whom I keep running into. She is probably in her late fifties, and is doing a portion of the Chemin solo. Hers is a preplanned itinerary with small hotels or bed and breakfasts booked in advance,  including luggage transfer. She recently lost her father in August, after having lost her mother in the beginning of the year. She is married, has a grandson of about five, and lives in some seaside resort town in the north of France. She was planning to walk farther than I today, so she left the gite before I did this morning.

It was misty with the lightest of showers as I left, with a forecast of clearing later in the day. Twenty minutes after I left I look shelter and switched to my rain gear--rain jacket with hood, rain pants,  and cover for my pack. It lasted about an hour before finally clearing up.

I ran into a handful of Pilgrims along the way, stopping at Pilgrim friendly Espeyrac, where I had lunch in a small restaurant. 

My lovely gîte for tonight is in Sénerques, called the Domaine de Sénos. Absolutely top notch, and worth every penny. It looks like there will only be a handful of people here tonight unless a group arrives late. It's attention to detail that often makes the difference, and it appears that the couple that run this place do it with the right motives.

Selections for Day 13 on the Pilgrimage

(Galatians 5) 1 For freedom Christ has set us free. Stand
firm, therefore, and do not submit again to a yoke of
slavery.

(Psalm 16) Protect me, O God, for in you I take refuge. 2 I
say to the LORD, "You are my Lord; I have no good apart
from you…." 5 The LORD is my chosen portion and my
cup; you hold my lot. 6 The boundary lines have fallen for
me in pleasant places; I have a goodly heritage. 
7 I bless the LORD who gives me counsel; in the night also my heart instructs me. 8 I keep the LORD always before me; because
he is at my right hand, I shall not be moved. 9 Therefore
my heart is glad, and my soul rejoices; my body also rests
secure 10 For you do not give me up to Sheol, or let your
faithful one see the Pit. 11 You show me the path of life. In
your presence there is fullness of joy; in your right hand
are pleasures forevermore

Moss-covered stones everywhere

Whimsy outside Espeyrac

My lunch break in Espeyrac

Gite Domaine de Senos