Post-scriptum : Paris reflections

You may have heard discussion about the resurfacing of bedbugs along the Route. I remember a group of us sitting around the table after dinner at the gîte Domaine de Sénos sharing our ignorance. I had seen an enlarged picture of one, along with one showing the actual reddened welts on someone's body.  Most gîtes were taking protective measures--boots were to remain outside, sometimes backpacks were not allowed in the sleeping area, there might be plastic covers on the mattress, etc.

Unfortunately, on my very last night at the Sainte Foy Abbey gîte in Conques, I got bitten. I suspect either the pillow or the top edge of the blanket, as the bites were on and around my neck. This meant washing everything in hot water that was washable when I returned, and using the dryer to heat my backpack and boots. Not a pleasant ending, but it could have been a lot worse.

All in all, it was a very Catholic time for me. Maybe because most of my companions were French or Canadians with Catholic heritage. Early on there had been a group that discussed their faith, and even made use of the chapel in one of the gîtes for an evening prayer. The 29 year-old Oriane had served as a volunteer in Catholic organization in Vietnam for a year. Michel, the now 40 year-old Canadian, had discovered love, and the love of God. I had stayed in the Convent of Malet and learned about the Italian nun, later beatified,  Angèle Merici, who was the founder of the Ursulines. I then stayed in a Catholic donativo gite, the Hospitalité Saint Jacques, where Catholic volunteers spent time encouraging their fellows in the faith. I talked at length with the older woman, Agnès, who recommended that I read the Catholic publication La Croix, for its balanced and informative treatment of subjects in the news. Finally, I spent time in Conques,  learning about Sainte Foy, learning about the Frères Prémontrés, but also hanging out with a group of older Catholics and their priest.  A very Catholic time indeed.

This morning, to my surprise,  I caught part 1 of a French mini-series on walking the Chemin St. Jacques de Compostelle.  Actually I think it concentrates on the mountainous segments,  this first episode being on the Aubrac in France,  which I had just completed.  I'm hoping someday to find it on YouTube...


And I have finally learned the tune to sing the "onward and upward" chant of the medieval pilgrims: 

Ultreïa ! Ultreïa ! E sus eia
Deus adjuva nos !

Listen here

P.S. I apologize for the weird order in which these postings have appeared.  I have no explanation as to why they were not posted in sequence.  I published them from my tablet, in chronological order, sometimes without photos due to the slow Internet speed or weak signal in places, but, nevertheless, in the end they were not sent out sequentially, and a bit annoying to read as a result...

Bedbug bites on neck

Leaving the Cathédrale de Notre Dame in Le Puy

Oriane, Michel and others in our gite in Saugues

The Couvent de Malet in St. Come d'Olt

Catholic hospitality in Estaing

Sainte Foy church

My Catholic bus-mates in front of the tympanum in Conques

 To watch a brief video version of my walk from Le Puy-en-Velay to Conques, click here.

Day 16 : Depart Conques for Paris

I haven't said much about the surprisingly tall 11th century romanesque church with its impressive tympanum of the last judgment,  or the cloister. Once run by the Benedictines, in more recent years the lovely Abbey of Sainte Foy at Conques has been taken over by the Order of Canons Regular of Prémontré--an order of German origin, influenced by Augustine,  that is both contemplative,  and engaged in the world.  I think there are currently 8 monks serving there.  As for the Abbey, in comparison to gothic structures, it is relatively simple in design, but, as I said, the lofty interior ceiling is as high as any gothic one.

While certainly enjoying my time in Conques, I spent a fair amount of time brainstorming yesterday for a solution to my 60 Euro dilemma without finding a good alternative. I talked to the Tourist Office, the volunteers at the Abbey help desk, fellow walkers, etc. One thing was certain--I didn't feel like hitchhiking, and 60 Euros was practically the price of my bargain train ticket to Paris!

There have been a fair number of people wandering around Conques because it is the weekend. Carloads of German-speaking hikers in the morning, and at least one huge group of would-be Pilgrims staying in the guest rooms of the Sainte Foy Abbey's gîte tonight just for the experience. I felt like exhibit A.

Well miracle of miracles--my dilemma was finally solved! One busload of people, visiting Conques with their parish priest, and conveniently staying with me at the Ste. Foy Abbey's gîte, were going via Rodez, another train station just south my stop of St. Christophe. Rodez is on the same line as my stop, and I was able to leave with them, planning to pay a small supplement at the station for the slight change in itinerary.  Even better,  when we came to Marcillac--about midway to Rodez, the main route was blocked due to an outdoor market operating there in the middle of the road, and our driver had no option but to turn around and go by St. Christophe, some 5 kilometres away! The priest asked me if I preferred to stop there--a rhetorical question if I ever heard one! I was elated--they even dropped me at the little train station!

Since I was early, I took an earlier train to Brive La Gaillarde, where I had a change of trains, but eating possibilities were better as it was a much larger town and a major train hub

Sainte Foy Abbey gîte

 

Weekend in Conques

Conques seen from the St. Roch chapel

Parish group from Pau

The bus

Saint Christophe station

Brive La Gaillarde station

Day 15 : More Conques

Five of us from the gite Domaine de Sénos overnighted in Conques, and we all showed for the special pilgrim blessing service along with a dozen others. The priest also gave us a nice explanation of the tympanum over the front doors of the church as well,  and since there just happened  to be an organ concert/(interior) light show through Sunday, we benefited from that, too! One thing I learned is that the Spanish name Santa Fe is actually a reference to Sainte Foy, as Foy (from the Latin word Fides) means Faith.

Unfortunately the only ATM machine in town was out of order, complicating my life. I had the Tourist Office call to let them know of the problem but since it is Saturday,  nothing is going to be done until Monday when I am gone. Very frustrating as I am quite low on Euros.

I have visited the church dedicated to Sainte Foy, the treasure with its reliquaries, including that of its patron saint, the little Chapelle du Rosaire, and the small  museum named after a former mayor, Joseph Fau.

Yesterday I had an overpriced dinner at the Auberge Saint Jacques, apparently the only restaurant open in the evening in the off season. At least I was able to pay with a credit card.  Actually the main dish was not bad, trout with pasta, and the dessert, a seasonal apple concoction with whipped cream, was fine as it was not too heavy. Most of the people were eating the aligot (potatoes, cheese and garlic) with sausage or steak, but I still hadn't recovered from lunch! Since I will be staying at the Abbey's gîte I will eat there as I prefer demi-pension when available...

I also visited the Roman bridge and the St. Roch chapel, but the chapel to Sainte Foy would have required me returning back to the gite for my hiking poles as it was well out of the city and much further along the Pilgrim Route. Conques is extremely hilly, and after walking a long slippery descent, without poles, I was in no hurry to walk back, retrieve mine, and repeat the process again.

The ATM is now functioning, which is good thing. I just learned that the shuttle I had planned to take to the train station only runs in high season, which ended a week ago. Instead of EUR 15, it will cost me EUR 60 to take a cab. I am not happy about that,  but don't exactly have any other options.

I have now moved from the gite communal to the Sainte Foy Abbey's gîte. Can't say it's an improvement, but at least I can take my meals there.

Selection for Day 15 on the Pilgrimage

(Hebrews 12) 1 [S]ince we are surrounded by so great a
cloud of witnesses, let us also lay aside every weight and
the sin that clings so closely, and let us run with
perseverance the race that is set before us, 2 looking to
Jesus the pioneer and perfecter of our faith, who for the
sake of the joy that was set before him endured the cross,
disregarding its shame, and has taken his seat at the right
hand of the throne of God.

Sainte Foy Abbey church

Modern Reliquary of Sainte Foy

Conques

Conques

Monk explaining the Tympanum of the church of Sainte Foy to pilgrims

Tympanum detail

Day 14 : Conques

My posting of 10/18/2014 has been mysteriously erased in the last few months.  Since what I wrote then can never be recaptured, I have simply posted again some photos from that period.

Day 13: Sénergues

Although I was a little miffed with my overpriced accommodations,  being charged a single supplement since there was no one to share my room with, I learned more about the older French woman, Agnès, whom I keep running into. She is probably in her late fifties, and is doing a portion of the Chemin solo. Hers is a preplanned itinerary with small hotels or bed and breakfasts booked in advance,  including luggage transfer. She recently lost her father in August, after having lost her mother in the beginning of the year. She is married, has a grandson of about five, and lives in some seaside resort town in the north of France. She was planning to walk farther than I today, so she left the gite before I did this morning.

It was misty with the lightest of showers as I left, with a forecast of clearing later in the day. Twenty minutes after I left I look shelter and switched to my rain gear--rain jacket with hood, rain pants,  and cover for my pack. It lasted about an hour before finally clearing up.

I ran into a handful of Pilgrims along the way, stopping at Pilgrim friendly Espeyrac, where I had lunch in a small restaurant. 

My lovely gîte for tonight is in Sénerques, called the Domaine de Sénos. Absolutely top notch, and worth every penny. It looks like there will only be a handful of people here tonight unless a group arrives late. It's attention to detail that often makes the difference, and it appears that the couple that run this place do it with the right motives.

Selections for Day 13 on the Pilgrimage

(Galatians 5) 1 For freedom Christ has set us free. Stand
firm, therefore, and do not submit again to a yoke of
slavery.

(Psalm 16) Protect me, O God, for in you I take refuge. 2 I
say to the LORD, "You are my Lord; I have no good apart
from you…." 5 The LORD is my chosen portion and my
cup; you hold my lot. 6 The boundary lines have fallen for
me in pleasant places; I have a goodly heritage. 
7 I bless the LORD who gives me counsel; in the night also my heart instructs me. 8 I keep the LORD always before me; because
he is at my right hand, I shall not be moved. 9 Therefore
my heart is glad, and my soul rejoices; my body also rests
secure 10 For you do not give me up to Sheol, or let your
faithful one see the Pit. 11 You show me the path of life. In
your presence there is fullness of joy; in your right hand
are pleasures forevermore

Moss-covered stones everywhere

Whimsy outside Espeyrac

My lunch break in Espeyrac

Gite Domaine de Senos

Day 12: Golinhac

Again no wifi. This is very disappointing considering how much I am paying for this place!  There is only one other gîte open that I am aware of, the Gîte du Radal, and I passed it long ago as it was a couple of kilometres before Golinhac.  I am therefore staying at Le Petit St. Jacques, but am paying a single supplement since I am by myself, one of the negatives for traveling off-season. I learned that the proprietor is a veterinarian; he and his wife are earning a little extra money for supporting their 4 children by running a couple of gîtes/chambres d'hôtes in the area.

The day started out well. Yesterday's gîte had been a "donativo," operated as Catholic hospitality center for Catholic Christians walking the Pilgrimage Route. It was run by volunteers and operated on donations. The young French woman, Caroline, and an older couple, Anne and Vincent, whom I had met at the Couvent de Malet, also stayed there. It had been in an ancient building in the medieval city center, and lacked some modern amenities--like Internet access, but the people there were very helpful.

Caroline and the others decided to take an alternate route, and stay at another donativo, but the route was slightly longer, so I decided to go it alone. I met early on a nice group of Belgians, and walked with them and two French men for a little before letting them outpace me. With a few exceptions, the walk wasn't overly difficult,  although I had stopped at a pharmacy before leaving to buy a knee brace just in case.

After some slight difficulty finding my gîte, I was surprised to find that the older French woman that I have encountered on several occasions--such as yesterday evening just as I was arriving in Estaing--was staying at the same place! She is walking as far as Figeac on a sort of planned self-guided tour. In addition, she is carrying a backpack but is also having a suitcase sent ahead of her. I think she said she is in real estate, and that she has left her husband at home to do this. She also reminds me a little of my sister, Karin.

Although it is only 6 pm and too early for dinner--and probably too late for anything else, I'm walking to a little restaurant in town reported to have wifi, to try and send this.

Selection for Day 12 on the Pilgrimage

(Psalm 31) 1 In you, O LORD, I seek refuge; …. Be a rock
of refuge for me, a strong fortress to save me. 3 You are
indeed my rock and my fortress; for your name's sake lead
me and guide me, 4 take me out of the net that is hidden
for me, for you are my refuge. 5 Into your hand I commit
my spirit; you have redeemed me, O LORD, faithful God. 6
You hate those who pay regard to worthless idols, but I
trust in the LORD. 7 I will exult and rejoice in your
steadfast love, because you have seen my affliction; you
have taken heed of my adversities, 8 and have not
delivered me into the hand of the enemy; you have set my
feet in a broad place. 9 Be gracious to me, O LORD, for I
am in distress….
 

.

Leaving in the early morning mist

Day 11 : Estaing

Today I awoke to a lovely morning mist. In a way I wished I had taken some pictures the day before as St. Côme d'Olt is listed by a French association as one of the most beautiful villages in France. I had breakfast with the four French men I had met the Gîte St. André the night before along with Caroline, the young French woman who shared my room. I started off before they did, but was soon overtaken by them as I spent some time taking pictures of the old city.

The path varied and in places was strewn with leaves from a variety of oak with very tiny leaves.  There were also acorns that fell without their caps attached, looking like scattered olives. Walking over them, given the somewhat uneven terrain, could be hazardous. The stoney section descending down to Espalion was difficult with a very steep descent and much rock scrambling. I met a French woman walking in the opposite direction, she asked where I was coming from and about the availability of gîtes there.  I met her husband much further down, taking a rest on a boulder.

Espalion is a good sized town divided by a river--the Lot. I encountered hikers of different stripes, many in large groups, some walking the pilgrim route, others doing day or longer treks  elsewhere. French, German-speaking, Dutch . . .

After a picnic lunch in a beautiful park, I continued on the longer walk to Estaing, deciding to skip the last hilly 2 kilometres of the GR65 and walked along the highway as my right knee was beginning to bother me.  Estaing turned out to be a picturesque medieval town as well. 

Selection for Day 11 on the Pilgrimage

(Psalm 130) 1 Out of the depths I cry to you, O LORD. 2
Lord, hear my voice! Let your ears be attentive to the voice
of my supplications! 3 If you, O LORD, should mark
iniquities, Lord, who could stand? 4 But there is
forgiveness with you, so that you may be revered. 5 I wait
for the LORD, my soul waits, and in his word I hope; 6 my
soul waits for the Lord more than those who watch for the
morning, more than those who watch for the morning. 7 O
Israel, hope in the LORD! For with the LORD there is
steadfast love, and with him is great power to redeem. 8 It
is he who will redeem Israel from all its iniquities.

Scary section between Saint Come and Espalion

View of Espalion

Espalion with Vieux-Palais

Leaving Espalion

Eglise de Tredou

Bessuejouls

Saint Jacques Catholic hospitality house in Estaing

Entering Estaing

Estaing

The chateau in Estaing, belonging for centuries to the Estaing family, is now property of the Valéry Giscard d'Estaing Foundation