My Chemin de Compostelle--the Via Podiensis: Day 8 : Aubrac

After a rather soggy yesterday, today was glorious. Yesterday I made it as far as Finieyrols and had to stay in somewhat more expensive accommodations than planned. Scarcely an hour after I arrived, the rain stopped, but I had had enough for the day, as the rain had made the walking more difficult. It was a lovely place, though, La Rose de l'Aubrac, and it was certainly nice having my own room and bathroom. The host had been very pleasant and offered me a mug of hot chocolate, which was just what I needed at the time.

Yet what a difference a day can make! Today was sunny and perfect walking weather. A good thing, too because the Aubrac is rather austere--the grass is shorter, the land barren with little vegetation, huge wide open spaces, and gigantic boulders instead of rocks. It would have been pretty miserable in the rain. The owner of the bed and breakfast thought he had seen my Québécois and French companions leaving the bakery early that morning taking the highway--the easy way--rather than the pilgrim route. No surprise after yesterday's experience, and I know they are more pressed for time than I am.

I had a hearty breakfast French-style--no bacon and eggs, but bread and homemade preserves, special cake from the region, pain perdu (like little French toasts) and clafouti. Walking to Nasbinals went briskly and without incident with me arriving in time for lunch. The recommended restaurant was closed, so I ate where the locals were eating. The food was copious but not particularly memorable.

After lunch I set out for the village of Aubrac through the countryside of the Aubrac--miles and miles of winding through huge expanses of grazing ground, following one stone fence after another. I thought it would never end. I met no one except cows, sheep, a few horses, and the occasional shepherd or farmhand. The altitude is high--over 1100 metres to finally some 1300 metres above sea level--and the air is thin--oxygen wise. I thought a lot about my sister Karin, and my father--both starving for oxygen... Some 2 or so kilometres from my destination I ran into a couple of day-hikers, a couple of mushroom gatherers, then, finally, two large groups of about 20 people each, on some kind of hiking excursions. The second group, composed of a lot of retirees, wanted to know how far I was going, where I had started, how the going was, etc. They all wished me bon chemin.

The place I will be staying, the Royal Aubrac, is the only gîte open in town, to my knowledge, and almost deserted. There are also a couple of more expensive places, but I believe one is closed for the season. The receptionist left about an hour ago, as no one else is expected. It appears to be by reservation only so I am glad I called ahead. I think there are all of 3 people staying here--it is like a ghost town. I understand from the chatty receptionist that the town has about 5 actual inhabitants. She herself is originally from the outskirts of Toulouse, but seems to like the place, and now lives nearby. She gave me a room upstairs overlooking the town of Aubrac so I could have a good view...

Selections for Day 8 on the Pilgrimage

(Psalm 103) 1 Bless the LORD, O my soul, and all that is
within me, bless his holy name…. 8 The LORD is merciful
and gracious, slow to anger and abounding in steadfast
love. 9 He will not always accuse, nor will he keep his
anger forever. 10 He does not deal with us according to our
sins, nor repay us according to our iniquities. 11 For as the
heavens are high above the earth, so great is his steadfast
love toward those who fear him; 12 as far as the east is
from the west, so far he removes our transgressions from
us. 13 As a father has compassion for his children, so the
LORD has compassion for those who fear him.

(Psalm 103) 11 For as the heavens are high above the earth, so
great is his steadfast love toward those who fear him.