"The Lord will keep your going out and your coming in from this time forth and forevermore."
Psalm 121:8 (ESV)
Navarrenx
Not a long walk today, but in the rain, sometimes light, sometimes sideways. Unfortunately when it rains those little picnic areas set up for pilgrim-walkers are just not an option.
I stopped once under the overhang of a barn where two French pilgrims offered me some mint tea, then again at a huge boulder when the rain had subsided for a few minutes to have a sandwich and a cereal bar, and then briefly with others at a small church just outside Navarrenx.
Since I was early and my gite didn't open until 3 pm, I had a lovely "pilgrim special" at La Taverne St. Jacques.
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| La Taverne St. Jacques |
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| lunch at the La Taverne St. Jacques |
Navarrenx is one of the oldest cities in the region with the earliest history of the site dating to first century. It is mentioned in an 11th century manuscript under the name of ‘Sponda-Navarrensis’ which means ‘edge of the Navarre.’
In the 13th century, Gaston VII, the viscount of the province of Béarn, ordered a stone bridge to be constructed to facilitate crossing of the Gave d'Oloron, a river near the Spanish border. This river is the longest salmon river in France with its source in the Pyrenées.
The town itself was later heavily fortified in 1538 under Henri II d'Albret, King of Navarre and sovereign of Béarn, and the high ramparts constructed during that period still remain to this day.
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| Jeanne d'Albret's house in Navarrenx |
His mother, Jeanne d'Albret, has another of her several houses here. She apparently had a number scattered around the region.
The lovely bastide town has become one of the "most beautiful villages of France" in 2014.
Tonight I am staying at "L'Alchemist" which is a bit of an institution. Before dinner there is a special pilgrim welcome at the Saint Germain d' Auxerre church in Navarrenx. Manuel, our host at L'Alchemist, insists that we attend. He is a character, and a bit of a wordsmith.
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| some history at the pilgrim service |
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| and a little apéritif |
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| L'Alchemist |
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| dinner at L'Alchemist |
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| first course |
Marie-Claude, one of my gîte-mates for the evening, described the place as "un peu spécial."
In the 13th century, Gaston VII, the viscount of the province of Béarn, ordered a stone bridge to be constructed to facilitate crossing of the Gave d'Oloron, a river near the Spanish border. This river is the longest salmon river in France with its source in the Pyrenées. 
The town itself was later heavily fortified in 1538 under Henri II d'Albret, King of Navarre and sovereign of Béarn, and the high ramparts constructed during that period still remain to this day. 
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